Incredibly versatile, a navy blazer is one of the core garments a man
should own if he lives in a large city, near the water, or has a
lifestyle where the wearing of suits and sports jackets needs to be
bridged. A blazer should always be matched with odd trousers (never a
fabric too similar) and is not a substitute for a suit; rather, it is
meant to fill the void between a business suit and casual dress.
Technically, blazers are more formal than light colored or rough weave
sport jackets and about on par with a suit worn without a tie and
loafers. A blazer is at home dressed up with a tie and dark slacks and
is a natural dressed down with an open collar striped dress shirt, white
trousers, and boat shoes.
Blazer Jacket History
The story behind the
men’s blazer jacket
is a muddled one. Today what we generally call a blazer jacket is
actually the offspring of two distinct jacket styles, one being double
breasted and having a British military origin while the other is single
breasted having evolved from the jacket worn at rowing clubs. From 1870
to 1950 there are about 10 different stories that I know of as to how
the blazer became a classic – I’ll bore you with none of these. What I
can tell you for certain is that the blazer jacket has been serving men
for over 100 years, is a style that has been approved of and worn by
kings, and because of its naval history evokes a feeling of nautical
adventure in its presentation. The modern blazer is a hybrid of this
heritage – it can be found in single or double breasted styles, is often
cut from a wide range of colors, utilizes a variety of buttons and
patches, and is used by businessmen, sportsmen, and school children to
signify belonging and placement in society.
Blazer Jacket Style
Blazers come in all types; for this article I will give you an
overview of the traditional “country” styles. However, it’s important
to note that an Italian can ask his English tailor to make him a jacket
in the American style……in other words travel and fluid borders have made
it so that these distinctions have less to do with location. Instead,
these country styles serve as more of a historical guide on what was and
is still possible to create. But hybrids incorporating a mix of the
below characteristics are common and often even preferred.
American Style Blazer – The traditional American style
blazer is normally a 2 button navy blue jacket with soft shoulders. The
jacket’s pockets can either be patch or flap pocket, with the lapel
style being notch. Normally you’ll see a center vent here, although I
encourage men to choose a double vent as it flatters more body types.
English Style Blazer – English style blazers vary from their
American counterparts in that they are built around more structured
shoulders with a suppressed waist (assuming the man in question is of
the right build). They build out the chest a bit more and have less of a
box shape. Made in either a single or
double breasted style,
the English style blazer will have a double vent and if double breasted
always peak lapels. The single breasted version will have notch lapels
and most likely 3 buttons but possibly 2.
Single-Breasted American Style vs. Double-Breasted English Cut
Italian Style Blazer – The Italian style blazer varies from
the other two in that the fabric selected is lighter weight, and the
entire jacket build is much less structured. Extremely soft shoulders
and a flexible but gently constructed inner lining allow the jacket to
float next to the wearer’s body. Vented or unvented, 3 buttons or 2,
the Italian jackets have more flair and are a reflection of their
wearer’s personality and quirks.
Blazer Buttons
The most noticeable detail on a blazer jacket,
blazer buttons
can range from delicate smoked mother of pearl buttons to heavy solid
gold family heirlooms passed from father to son. Most manufacturers
will make their jackets with simple generic brass buttons; although many
never change these, a man in the know can easily turn one jacket into
many by simply having a few sets and changing the buttons out with the
seasons. Mother of pearl for spring & summer, silver for fall, and
gold for winter.
3 Various Blazer Buttons
Blazer Fabric
Blue worsted Serge is the classic blazer fabric, although any navy
worsted or flannel wool is a classic choice. Rougher weaves or fabrics
with a slight pattern technically transform the jacket from a blazer to
a blue sportcoat, but the distinctions are blurred by most, and I have
to admit my favorite “blazer” uses a blue glen check fabric that I
love. Besides navy, blazers also come in bottle green here in the
United States and lighter colors across the world.
How a Blazer Jacket Should Fit
A blazer should fit in the same fashion a suit jacket and sport coat should.
- Room in the shoulders to allow full arm movement but not so much
room that the shoulders are over extending the shoulder points by more
than ½ inch.
- Room in the chest to fully button the jacket but not enough to hide a baseball.
- The blazer jacket sleeves should extend to the wrist bone and show ¼ to ¾ an inch of shirt cuff when standing straight.
- The jacket length should always fully cover your backside – it can
be a bit longer if you are taller than six foot, and should lean on the
shorter side if you are shorter than five foot six.
How a blazer jacket should fit
What to Wear with a Blazer Jacket
Grey Flannel Trousers – the perfect partner for a blazer jacket,
grey flannel trousers
compliment a wide range of sport jackets as well and have historically
been the go to trousers for stylish men for almost a century. They are
comfortable, classic, and durable.
Khaki Trousers – Will make a man look a bit shorter
as this combination’s contrast in color draws attention to the
midsection instead of allowing the eyes to flow from head to toe. Men
south of five foot seven and those with substantial midsections should
try to wear either darker shades of khaki or skip this option
altogether.
White Cotton Slacks – A great summer choice,
white cotton trousers
require a bit of personality to pull off and need to be worn with
care. The pros outweigh the cons here though; if you can pull it off,
the contrast looks great.
Quality Denim (aka Jeans) – Levi 501s and 505s are
my favorite, but there are so many types out there it shouldn’t be too
hard to find something that works for your body shape. The key here is
to know that the quality and color of the jeans will determine the dress
level of the outfit. Dark colored 501s and a blazer – Andy Warhol
pulled this off at big events in NYC; shredded designer jeans and a
double breasted blazer…..you’re on your own there! And
never wear baggy jeans like this with a blazer.
Lastly, remember the details. A blazer deserves nice slip-on dress shoes, a
crisp dress shirt, and always looks great accompanied by a
simple pocket square.
Finally, the question I hear most often – Can you wear an old suit jacket as a blazer?
The answer is yes, assuming that-
1) the jacket fits you.
2) the style is simple (no 4-button, Saturday Night Fever, or Zoot Suit coats).
3) the fabric is solid navy or dark blue.
4) the plastic buttons are removed and proper blazer buttons are attached.
Written by
Antonio Centeno
President,
A Tailored Suit